TOKYO to
WAKAYAMA
Spirited Away

Venture into
Sacred Space

Takijiri-oji marks the spiritual entryway to the Kumano mountains, separating the secular and spiritual worlds. Stop by the Kumano Kodo Kan Pilgrimage Center (across the river from the trailhead) to get maps, tips, and equipment. The first leg to Takahara is relatively short but steep. Start your experience at Tainai-kuguri, a collection of boulders that form a cave, about 15 minutes into your hike. Enter the cave and attempt the millennium-old tradition of testing your faith by squeezing through the opening at the far end.

The trail descends into Chikatsuyu, a basin clustered with homes, minshuku guesthouses, a post office, a handful of cafes, and the Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Museum. Cross the Hiki River to enter the village and take time to explore the moss-covered stone walls, as well as the Nonagase Clan Cemetery, a final resting place for ancient warriors.

Set off from Chikatsuyu-oji in the early morning to reach Kumano Hongu Taisha by the early afternoon. This part of the trail traverses three mountain passes as well as the picturesque Nonaka village along the way. Take a moment to admire the scattering of traditional houses, as well as the Hidehira-zakura, a cherry tree that stretches its branches straight over the road.

Reflections at the Gates

Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the three Kumano Sanzan shrines, is nestled in a wooded area atop a small hill. Previously located down at the Oyunohara sandbank next to the Kumano River, the shrine was moved to higher ground after a flood in 1889.

Nestled by the surrounding mountains, this historical hot spring town has given respite to weary pilgrims for over a thousand years. Steam billows from the river between the traditional wooden houses as hot spring water leads out into the cool mountain stream. Yunomine Onsen has many family-run inns to choose from, including Minshuku Kuraya, a quaint two-story house with its own hot spring bath.

Undertake the
Highs & Lows

Together with Ogumotori-goe, the Kogumotori-goe trail links the Kumano Hongu Taisha and Kumano Nachi Taisha shrines. The trailhead is in Ukegawa, a 10-minute bus ride from Yunomine Onsen. This leg of the journey is challenging, as it goes deep into the forest with many inclines. There are no restaurants along the way, so stock up on supplies at the Yamazaki shop (located between the Ukegawa bus stop and the trailhead) before heading out.

Hyakkengura is a lookout point along Kogumotori-goe trail. There is a long and gradual climb to this point, but it pays off with a panoramic view of — what is said to be —all 3,600 mountains in the Kii mountain range. Embrace the stillness here. The sunset on a clear day offers a magnificent display of orange and white rays against a backdrop of red and purple as it dips below the mountaintops.

The Final Push

One of the toughest stretches along Kumano Kodo’s Nakahechi route, expect three passes with climbs and descents. The first section, known as Dogiri-zaka, or back-breaking slope, is a 5-kilometer uphill affair. Distract your mind from the pain; observe the ancient stone walls bearing rice fields of yore. Catch your breath at the Jizo-do, a roofed shelter housing Jizo statues, in the remains of the Jizo-jaya Teahouse. It is located in a clearing by a stone-banked river. Once you reach the Funami-toge Pass, you’ll finally catch a view of the craggy Kii coastline. From here, an easy slope down to Kumano Nachi Taisha, one of the three Kumano Sanzan shrines.

The 133-meter-high waterfall is Japan’s tallest and, together with the bright pagoda, is said to be the most beautiful. Trek down to the base to feel the power of the falls as the cool air and mist caress your cheeks. While you’re here, take a detour to Daimon-zaka, a particularly picturesque stone step slope lined with cedar trees.