Tokyo to Niigata:
Cityscapes to Snow Country
When Nobel Prize laureate Yasunari Kawabata wrote about Niigata in his 1948 novel “Snow Country”, the region was worlds apart from the capital of Tokyo. Since then, the gap has narrowed, and Japan’s snow-capped peaks have never felt closer. Connected by the bullet train, it takes just over an hour for travelers to zip between these beautifully contrasting regions. You can catch the buzz of Tokyo’s sprawling metropolis in the morning and take in the snow country views the same afternoon.
Tokyo: Technical Marvels
For an elevated view of one of Tokyo’s most popular destinations, head to Shibuya Sky. Perched on top of the Shibuya Scramble Square, this 360-degree open-air observation deck soars approximately 230 meters above the heart of the city. It offers a bird’s eye view of the famed Shibuya Scramble Crossing, where people from all walks of life pass daily. You’ll feel as though you’re touching the clouds, and on a clear day, you can see Mt Fuji in the distance. The panoramic views of the city will leave you wanting to make another trip up to the deck at night when the city lights are on.
For a more grounded experience, head to trendy Odaiba, along Tokyo Bay. Step into the future at teamLab Borderless’s interactive digital art museum*. This immersive, three-dimensional sensory experience allows you to become part of the art yourself. Embrace your inner child as you tap digital canvases and watch as they magically spring to life. Create original melodies as you hop between glowing, musical cubes in the Athletics Forest, and complete your visit by sipping on a bowl of fragrant green tea as a flower slowly blooms inside it.
Tokyo: Culture Trip and Ancient Traditions
Take a trip into the past as you board a Tokyo water bus or ferry from Odaiba and enter the Asakusa district. Nostalgia comes alive here, and historical sites like Tokyo’s oldest temple Sensoji Temple are a must-visit. Once there, dive right into this flourishing temple area by donning a colorful kimono and hailing a rickshaw for a guided tour of some of the best highlights. Or explore at your own pace on foot. The sweet scent of freshly baked ningyo-yaki, or doll cakes, fills the air as you take a slow walk down Nakamise-dori. Historically, these azuki bean-filled cakes are in the shape of Japan’s seven gods of good fortune, but these days you’re just as likely to take a bite out of a cute character such as Hello Kitty.
Near the main hall, holy smoke swirls around a giant clay incense pot, and a soothing peppery fragrance will linger on your senses long after your visit. After that brief healing respite, scale the eighth floor of the Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center to see Tokyo’s stark contrasts: Sensoji Temple’s traditional architecture neatly enveloped by modern skyscrapers and, across the river, the ascending steel tower of Tokyo Skytree.
Niigata: Immersive Natural Beauty in Any Season
Just over an hour from Tokyo’s vibrant city lights awaits Niigata’s vast natural landscapes. Where Tokyo offers the thrill of a busy city and has cool digitized art installations, Niigata boasts nature as its canvas. Hop on the bullet train, and a quick snack on board will ease you into a picture-perfect idyll in no time. Lean back, relax, and watch as the scenery blends from high-rise buildings into rice fields and towering mountains — you’re in Snow Country now.
Though considered somewhat off the beaten path, Niigata’s snowy inclines are surprisingly accessible: you can hit the slopes within two hours of leaving Tokyo on the Hokuriku Shinkansen. Myoko area’s Lotte Arai Resort has 15 trails and eight off-piste slopes that offer thrilling ski terrain during the winter season, from December to May. Non-skiers can try the snowmobile and snowshoeing tours, snow rafting, or the zipline for an equally adrenaline-filled experience. After an active day enjoying the outdoor activities, refresh yourself in the hotel’s luxurious low-alkaline hot spring bath.
Though Kawabata’s “Snow Country” depicts Niigata — and especially Echigo-Yuzawa — as a wintertime hot spring retreat, the region is a year-round destination. The Echigo-Yuzawa area transforms in the spring and summer sun, offering immaculate landscapes of golden rice fields and babbling creeks. In the summer months, between August to November, swap skis for a bike and join Snow Country Cycling to explore remote farm villages. This is a fantastic way to enjoy the freedom of the open road and great company. Chat with locals over freshly brewed coffee made using natural spring water from the surrounding mountains.
Some areas in Niigata are a year-long spectacle. The Tokamachi area is home to the igneous rock cliffs of Kiyotsu Gorge, one of Japan’s three great gorges. The steep slopes are adorned with pale greens that emerge among lingering snow patches, then transition to a rich green. The tranquil experience comes complete with nature’s soundscapes. Autumn bursts with brilliant golds and deep crimsons juxtaposed against grey rocks. In winter, snow covers every surface but the crystal-clear river, likening the landscape to a “sumi-e” — Japanese ink painting.
This natural canvas can be viewed all-year-long from the Tunnel of Light, a unique art installation by Ma Yansong of MAD Architects. This 750-meter-long stretch unites contemporary art with natural beauty, prompting visitors to rethink their connection with nature. The historic route culminates in an open-air Panorama Station, where a reflecting pool mirrors the gorge outside.
Venturing into Tokyo’s vibrant urban sights and Niigata’s dynamic natural landscapes gives a sense of Japan’s diverse scenery, culture, and art. Discovering the best of these worlds has never been simpler — just hop on a bullet train and let your senses guide you.
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*Note: teamLab Borderless will close temporarily from August 31, 2022 and will move to a new location in central Tokyo in 2023.
In light of Covid-19 and restricted international travel, the recommendations in this article are for future considerations.
