Cooking Up Paradise
Just as Labuan Bajo prepares to welcome tourists back when the time is right, Italian chef Marco Bertini experiments with flavors in his restaurant for guests waiting to explore some of Indonesia’s star attractions.
If the home is where the heart is, Marco Bertini has found the perfect one in Labuan Bajo.
“I fell in love with the place right away,” says the Tuscany-born chef, explaining why he made his home here. The town, located on the western tip of the island of Flores in East Nusa Tenggara, is the gateway to the reefs and islands of UNESCO-listed Komodo National Park, one of Indonesia’s most celebrated attractions.
“It reminds me of Italy in many ways,” adds Bertini, whose restaurant MadeInItaly has helped transform the town’s gastronomic landscape. “The islands on the water, the rugged mountains that sweep down to the ocean, the little harbors dotted with fishing boats, the fresh seafood that I use in my cooking. I feel a real sense of belonging here.”
In 2010, when Bertini first discovered Labuan Bajo, he was ready for a change. Years of living and working in big cities and major tourist hubs like Bali had seen him forge a formidable reputation in the kitchen. For his next venture, Bertini wanted a more relaxing lifestyle while still offering exceptional dining. Labuan Bajo seemed like the perfect place to realize his dreams.
It wasn’t much more than a sleepy fishing village. The roads were unpaved at the time, and it was a lot smaller than it is now,” he says. “But I couldn’t miss the potential.
Bertini’s gamble paid off. Since debuting in 2011, MadeInItaly has earned wide acclaim for its authentic Tuscan-inspired fare. The chef also owns a boat — MadeInItaly The Boat — running day trips and overnight cruises into the national park with authentic Italian cuisine served onboard. Rounding out the MadeInItaly empire in Labuan Bajo is his farm where the chef grows his produce and raises free-range animals for his restaurants.
I’m happy with where the town is right now,” says Bertini. “It is developing, but it’s not too developed. I can still take a stroll down to the harbor and chat with the fishermen and pick up some fresh seafood for the restaurant. People who come here can appreciate the beauty while still feeling its laid-back charm.
Like Bertini, Labuan Bajo is finding broader recognition. The rising tourism star has a bustling waterfront and an ever-expanding selection of inviting restaurants, bars, and hotels. Stunning scenery, deserted beaches, and a rugged hinterland perfect for hiking and biking enhance the town’s appeal, but the key reason for Labuan Bajo’s growing fame is its proximity to Komodo National Park.
The protected area, which encompasses Komodo, Rinca, Padar, and 26 smaller islands, is legendary for pristine stretches of sand and spectacular dive sites amidst its coral reefs. The area’s indigenous wildlife is equally compelling, especially the Komodo dragon, the largest lizard on earth.
The Covid-19 pandemic has stemmed the flow of foreign visitors to Labuan Bajo for now. As part of its plans for the new normal that provides visitors the highest safety protocols, Indonesia’s Ministry of Tourism and Creative Economy has introduced InDOnesia CARE.
The national campaign encourages and helps stakeholders implement cleanliness, health, safety, and environmental sustainability (CHSE) protocols. This emphasis on security, wellness, and comfort has been designed to help revitalize the tourism industry in Labuan Bajo and Komodo National Park.
We are looking at infrastructure development in five super priority destinations – including Labuan Bajo – as well as maintaining the supply and demand chain and improving human resources for the tourism sector and the creative economy.
Sandiaga Uno, Tourism and Creative Economy Minister.
Visitors can expect peace of mind when they next visit Labuan Bajo. Protocols include regular disinfectant procedures, safe physical distancing, and temperature checks at all relevant venues.
Before entering Labuan Bajo via land, sea, or air, visitors must present a negative swab test result and provide a QR code to be verified by health officers at immigration points. Other protocols include mandatory masks and sanitizers in all transport services and the utilization of digital technology wherever possible to minimize physical contact.
With safety and hygiene top of mind for travelers, government agencies, and local businesses in Labuan Bajo are rising to the occasion to meet these demands.
“Every place, destination, or any tourism business that has passed the CHSE assessment will earn an official certification of InDOnesia CARE,” said Agustini Rahayu, Director of Communications at the Ministry of Tourism and Creative Economy. “All this was put in place so that everyone involved — both tourists and people working in the industry — can feel safe while enjoying the beauty of Indonesia’s top destinations.”
Bertini, for one, believes that Labuan Bajo has never been more appealing. When he is not busy at work, the chef unwinds by taking in the sunset at La Cecile Hotel in the heart of the town. From a comfortable spot on the hotel terrace, he watches the sun sink into the ocean, painting the sky with vivid shades of orange and red.
I count my blessings to be here,” he says. “It’s such a beautiful spot that it is impossible not to feel gratitude.
He may be many thousands of kilometers away from Italy, but it seems apt that this son of Tuscany will lend his creativity to Labuan Bajo’s post-pandemic renaissance.
Back to Beauty
Exploration awaits in Indonesia’s islands.
#wonderfulindonesia