the Island
thin line separates Ahmed Shaffan’s art and the vibrant culture of the Maldives. His brush translates the colors, energy, and aquatic life of the archipelago into vast and vivid murals and paintings that adorn popular cafes across Malé. His work even hangs in the five-star Hard Rock Hotel.
“My favorite places are where I can see the sea and sky meet,” says Shaffan, who also heads the Maldivian Artist Community, an NGO that promotes art and culture in the Maldives.
“The colors I use in my paintings are those of the sunrises and sunsets of the Maldives.”
Shaffan begins his day with a stroll along Malé’s Artificial Beach to watch the fishermen returning to shore with their morning catch, and the sky begins its transition from the cool black of night through the kaleidoscope of colors of the Maldives at dawn.
From the white sandy beach, visitors can watch the sunrise over the elegant arches of the Sinamalé Bridge, newly built to connect the capital to the northern island of Hulhumalé. On a day with good swell, the picturesque view is dotted with local surfers, who bounce and bob among the waves, trying to ride the perfect line.
The Maldives’ surf season runs consistently from March to October each year, and one of the best places to catch waves is on the island of Himmafushi, Shaffan’s preferred place to relax and take inspiration close to the capital.
The island, less than a mile long, is surrounded by deep, turquoise waters and is home to Jailbreaks, a surf break that was once off-limits due to its proximity to the island’s jail. The point is famed for having one of the county’s finest right-handers, a long, unbroken wave that forms tubes when the surf is high. Himmafushi is a 20-minute speedboat ride from Malé and has multiple guesthouses for visitors keen to catch the surf, but it is also close enough to the capital to make for an easy day trip.
Malé’s cafes spring into action from around 7am, serving local food and casual bites to early risers.
At Blood Orange, a chic, local, fusion restaurant, a striking mural decorates the walls, one of the many murals that Shaffan has painted around the city. One of the best ways to appreciate the local art scene is to visit the city’s cafes, recommends Shaffan, whose work also features at Ellie's Cuisine and the Maagiri Hotel.
“In Malé and Hulhumale, there is so much art on display in cafes: murals, paintings, and photographs, all by young Maldivian creators,” he explains.
The growing art scene has paved the way for formal exhibitions, with more up-and-coming local artists showcasing their work. At Malé’s National Art Gallery, Maldivian and international artists hold residencies and there is a rotating series of special exhibitions throughout the year. Next to the capital’s main ferry terminal is one of Shaffan’s favorite galleries, Art Gallery Malé, a small but dedicated exhibition space that displays a new local artist each month.
The aquatic life of the Maldives features heavily in Shaffan’s work, and beneath the surface of the water lies a flourishing marine ecosystem.
“In the Maldives, we have sharks, which look after our reefs and our oceans,” says Shaffan.
The bountiful sea life means that the Maldives also has a thriving fishing culture.
“A perfect day for me includes getting on a boat and going fishing, and then maybe a barbecue on the beach,” says Shaffan.
Historically, fishermen took to sea in dhonis, small sailboats made from the wood of the coconut palms that line the islands. These vessels are mostly motorized and are available for hire for guided, four-hour fishing cruises at sunset. Boats leave around dusk from Malé and guides teach traditional line fishing, where hand-pulled lines are used to catch fish such as snapper, squirrelfish, and barracuda straight from the ocean. More expert fishers can experience big-game sport fishing, with full-day tours taking travelers far offshore to catch large tuna and giant marlin.
The bountiful sea life means that the Maldives also has a thriving fishing culture.
“A perfect day for me includes getting on a boat and going fishing, and then maybe a barbecue on the beach,” says Shaffan.
Historically, fishermen took to sea in dhonis, small sailboats made from the wood of the coconut palms that line the islands. These vessels are mostly motorized and are available for hire for guided, four-hour fishing cruises at sunset. Boats leave around dusk from Malé and guides teach traditional line fishing, where hand-pulled lines are used to catch fish such as snapper, squirrelfish, and barracuda straight from the ocean. More expert fishers can experience big-game sport fishing, with full-day tours taking travelers far offshore to catch large tuna and giant marlin.
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