Escape the Ordinary
A journey of
seafood and sake
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When celebrated chef Pepe Moncayo fell in love with sake, he knew two things for sure. This would be a life-changing affair of the heart, mind and palate - and it would be a lifelong affair filled with inspiration and discovery.
Sake is eclectic and fascinating. It's concerned with balancing flavor and fragrance, rather than just strength; its finish is often short and focused on a clean aftertaste, rather than the kind of length you look for in wine.
A parallel fermentation process lies at sake's heart: polished rice is fermented with koji (the same mold spores used in soy sauce and miso, among others), then fermented again with yeast.
There's a myriad of variables, including the type of rice used and the degree to which grains are polished, whether the sake is pasteurized or fresh, the filtration processes, and whether alcohol is added. It all depends on the sake master presiding at a brewery.
of sake though, Pepe has stumbled onto a delicious truth:
In this wide, wildly varied world of sake though, Pepe has stumbled onto a delicious truth: paired together, seafood and sake are the stuff of gastronomic dreams.
of umami
Umami is the magic that happens when glutamate-rich foods, such as seafood, release glutamic acids, which join forces with the tongue's taste receptors to cause flavor to be heightened, deepened, multiplied.
Here are some ideas on how to pair sakes with seafood for a new flavor experience.
Most closely understood outside of Japan as a sense of savoriness or "meatiness", umami encompasses depth, complexity and irresistible appeal. You'll find it in tomatoes, meat, cheese and - spectacularly so - seafood. It's the main point of departure between sake and a regular bottle of Sauvignon Blanc.
Italian-Japanese pairings, though unconventional, are delicious. Baccalau, or salted cod, is fantastic with a sake with higher acidity, while a fritto misto (fried seafood and vegetables) goes wonderfully with a clean, smooth sake that will cleanse the palate.
Sparkling
Sake
Junmai Daiginjo
Yamada Nishiki
Kimoto
Junmai
When Pepe opened his popular restaurant, Bam! in Tras Street, Singapore, sake became a central pillar of its culinary philosophy; today, its cellar has over 80 labels from across Japan.
"Modern Shudo" is the concept at play, referring to a contemporary way of enjoying sake. It's about celebrating the versatile spirit of sake in a relaxed and open manner, even as diners appreciate its long history and tradition.
Ultimately, Pepe doesn't believe in following rules too closely – In his pairings, he may match lighter sakes with lighter dishes, and richer ones with heavier dishes, but that's as constrained as he'll allow himself to be.
These days, Pepe finds his glasses topped up with sparkling sake more than any other. "I am in love with my sparkling sake, it is one of my obsessions!" he says. Effervescent, low in alcohol and easy to enjoy, sparkling sakes undergo a secondary bottle or tank fermentation or carbonation. They make a great gateway drink for sake novices. Odds are, a few labels will find their way to the sake list of Cranes, Pepe's new restaurant and sake lounge in Washington DC.