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Hanoi Generations
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HANOI
GENERATIONS
Hanoi has a history of over 1,000 years, but today is a city striding fast toward the future. The Doan family who runs one of Hanoi’s longest-standing family businesses has had a ringside seat to the city’s transformation over the years. Cha Ca La Vong, a classic Vietnamese grilled fish dish, has been in her family for six generations. The founders, Mr. Phuc and Ms. Van, cooked for the army led by De Tham, a revolutionary who fought against French colonial forces in the 19th century. Meet the family members who are fighting to keep their tradition alive.
2nd Generation
MRS LOC
"
We didn’t face any issues when the restaurant first opened.
(After the war) The government supported our restaurant,
in the hope that it will attract tourists
and to promote Cha Ca to both Vietnamese and foreigners.
At that time, we had mostly diplomats and embassy staff in the restaurant,
as well as a few foreign experts.
We didn’t have many tourists like we do now.
Our restaurant was like their meeting hub
because there were very few places to dine back then.
There was only a few restaurants but our Cha Ca was the most famous.
..."
Hanoi
1950s
The 50s saw dramatic political changes come to Hanoi. Post the Japanese Occupation, Ho Chi Min, the father of modern Vietnam declared the country’s independence in Hanoi on September 2, 1945. But the French returned in 1946, initiating the First Indochina War. The Viet Minh finally defeated the French in 1954, and Hanoi became the capital of an independent North Vietnam.
3rd Generation
Mr Hiep
"
The biggest change in Hanoi from when I was a child,
can be seen on the streets.
I typically do not like to go out much
so when I have to go to say, Ha Dong, I will feel lost.
I can see the changes reflecting in new residential developments,
and on the freeways.
Every time I am away from Hanoi, I just want to come back immediately.
..."
Hanoi
2000s
By the late 1990s, Vietnam’s economy began to brighten after years of struggling. Doi moi, a dramatic economic reform program that saw the county do away with five-year plans and begin to embrace capitalism, sparked an incredible transformation. Over the last 20 years, Hanoi has witnessed remarkable growth and change. A fast-rising middle class has spurred a vibrant food and beverage scene, while multinational corporations like Samsung have invested billions in surrounding provinces. Luxury high-rises and villa developments stretch into new suburbs, while tourism has also taken off thanks to the city’s famed cuisine and ancient history.
4th Generation
HUY
"
I decided to come back to Hanoi to live and work
because of one simple reason: My family is here.
I really want to live and work closely with my family,
that’s what I really want.
Many of my friends are studying in a different country.
A few of them have also started to work for their families, just like me.
I think I like working in the family business
because I can receive my family’s attention and affection.
They can give me good advice if I’m doing something wrong
and I can then fix it.
..."
Hanoi
THE FUTURE
Hanoi, like Vietnam as a whole, is poised for a bright future, though it does face challenges such as traffic congestion and air pollution. The city is currently building a metro system which, when completed, will completely transform how people get around – though motorbikes will surely remain an ingrained part of the culture. Continued economic growth will shape Hanoi into a truly international metropolis, with the ancient Old Quarter remaining at its heart.
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BETWEEN NEW & OLD HANOI
BETWEEN NEW & OLD HANOI
Hanoi, Vietnam’s enigmatic 1000-year-old capital, is a city ingrained in legend and intrigue. In 2019, Hanoi celebrates its 20th year as The City for Peace conferred by UNESCO.
Discover more More from CNN Travel Share14 Cha Ca
La Vong Grilled Fish
The original Cha ca la vong restaurant is here – go up the flight of stairs at No. 14 and feast on a slice of Hanoi’s history!
Food Culture
In Hanoi, food is plentiful. Available on every street corner, food is an integral part of many Hanoians’ livelihoods. As a major economic center, Hanoi draws many people from other northern regions, and the food changes as a result. “Things are changing, people are eating in nicer settings, but people still like street food,” says award-winning journalist and writer Nguyen Qui Duc.
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Architecture
Given its long history, Hanoi is home to a number of distinct architectural styles, from traditional shophouses in the Old Quarter and elegant French villas in the embassy district to Brutalist government buildings around Hoan Kiem Lake and modern international housing developments and high-rises, particularly in the western suburbs. Cha Ca La Vong, which has barely been touched since 1975, is emblematic of the Old Quarter, but far different from the new areas that have sprung up during the city’s rapid growth over the last two decades.
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Traditionally Modern
While its neighbors are quick to embrace multinational brands at their doorsteps, foreign retail and fast food chains have been slow to make inroads here in Hanoi. Instead, family-owned businesses pepper the streets. The city prides itself as Vietnam’s cultural capital since the 11th century. Today, with a digitally savvy young population and rising affluence, a newfound appreciation for unique local products has birthed a generation of Hanoians who are helping support the city’s boutiques and craftsman.
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NEW WAVE
Hanoi’s Old Quarter is the bedrock for the city’s arts and culture and is the quintessential soul of the city. As the city begins to open its doors to a smart city future, a new wave is set to transform the city. Hanoi has long been home to innovators who combine creativity and tradition with commercial know-how and the future of the city is set to look inward for inspiration.
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Catfish with turmeric
Hanoi is landlocked so freshwater catfish is used in this delicate and flavorful iconic dish. Turmeric has a long history as a healing agent and its vibrant color and earthy flavor often feature in various Vietnamese dishes.
Vermicelli
Vermicelli noodles are called mien in Vietnamese and come in white and yellow versions. They are used mainly in noodle soup and in fried spring rolls.
Dill
Cha ca la vong is highly unique in its use of dill, an herb that is unused in essentially every other Vietnamese dish, whereas mint, coriander and basil are much more common. It symbolizes much of Vietnam’s modern history and its colonial influences.
Fennel
Fennel, with its aromatic leaves, stalk, and bulb, has a similar flavor to anise or tarragon. Fennel pairs well with fish and in this dish, the fennel served must be “average, not too young, not too old.”
Coriander
Southeast Asian food has been described as a mix of hot, sour, salty and sweet with mainland countries such as Vietnam, Thailand and Cambodia using more aromatic herbs such as coriander. This herb holds a variety of complex flavors. It’s spicier than traditional mint, with a slight lemony and bitter aftertaste.
Lime
Like mint, basil and coriander, lime is a common addition to many meals in Hanoi, giving the food a balance of familiar and potentially unfamiliar flavors.
Shrimp paste
Shrimp paste, or mam tom, a love- hate dipping sauce in Hanoian cuisine. There is a long list of Vietnamese food that, without shrimp paste, would be incomplete. Mam tom is a pungent concoction and sends an electric jolt to the senses.
Chili
Chili made its way into Vietnamese cuisine during the 1368 to 1644 AD period. In this dish, it adds a kick to balance the herbaceous flavors.
Peanuts
Peanuts are ubiquitous in Hanoian cuisine. It is present as a garnish, as an oil for cooking, and is ground in sauces and condiments.
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Business Owner
ANDY
For the Northern people in general and Hanoi in particular, the sweet and spicy taste is not the taste that everyone likes.
In the south, people like sweet and spicy. But in the North and in Hanoi, it is a combination of slightly sour, sweet and salty. It is a combination of those 3 tastes.
For me, the most important meal of the day is dinner.
Because dinner is the time for the whole family to sit together. I spend the most time at dinner with my wife and our two children.
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Retired TV Producer
van
Hanoi beef Pho is the best and the most delicious. It has a sweet, sweet taste that no other place has.
For example, in the South, they add sugar, that sweetness is not from the beef noodle soup.
Or like Nam Dinh beef noodle soup that has a fish sauce flavor.
Pho in Hanoi does not have those tastes. It has a very unique taste. It is sweet and flavorful. You can taste onion, and spices like cardamom, anise. It is very subtle.
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Hanoi’s Food Scene
This bustling and antique city comes alive with food stalls and cafes spilling out with Hanoians of all ages and walks of life. For many, it’s not about the luxuriousness of the café or restaurant but the quality of the product. The vibe and atmosphere of Hanoi’s famed food alleys and wall to wall cafes are teemed with a slight romanticism and energy that make this living museum come alive.
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Architect
Hung
Hanoi has a lot of popular dishes.
To say what my most favorite dish is difficult.
But what I love the most is definitely street food!
Family is important to us Vietnamese, so we definitely eat at home more.
My mother is the one who cooks for the family.
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Explore the essence and the richness of Hanoi’s culture as the city leaps into the future through its famed food heritage and iconic dish, the cha ca.
Hanoi, Vietnam’s enigmatic 1000-year-old capital, is a city ingrained in legend and intrigue. In 2019, Hanoi celebrates its 20th year as The City for Peace conferred by UNESCO.
Discover more More from CNN Travel Share